93 Mazda 626 V6 Head Gasket swap

[fbi90909]

so i'm working on my Mazda 626 V6 ES that i bought for 200 bucks last year that has been sitting in my carport the entire time just waiting to get repaired. i finally put the effort into it and decided to get the work done that it needs. and what a challenge it is to someone that has never really worked on an engine(taking one apart and re assembling it at that).
i've done work on my civic as replacing the alt with an HO alt and installed coilovers. i've helped put an exhaust manifold on a 98 civic. replaced the struts on the BMW. but tackling a head gasket is a first.

anyways, the car when bought was thought by owner that the water pump was bad, when i diagnosed the car the water pump was still good, it was the valve cover gasket and the head gasket that was bad after doing some research. oil was leaking into the spark plugs and water/coolant was leaking from the front of the engine along when driving the car it would overheat within 20 minutes. also water/coolant was being spit out of the exhaust.

so far i have removed
battery
air intake
alternator
radiator
2 tension pulleys
engine mount
intake manifold
spark plug wires
distributor
front valve cover
loosened the exhaust manifold
loosened the a/c compressor

well right now i'm stuck. i fucking can't get the camshaft pulley bolt off to remove the pulley so i can continue on the dis assembly. in the manual it says to use a strap wrench and a socket with a breaker bar. i've tried this and manage to snap 2 strap wrenches..
the manual doesn't say anything that the bold could be reverse threaded so i haven't been trying.
anyone have any thoughts on removing this? it's pissing me off that i can't go any further.
pics
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/DSCN0372.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/DSCN0371.jpg
^^ that bolt in the big pulley is what i need to remove. think i need an impact wrench which i don't have nor know anyone that would lend me one.

[_AnGeL_]

replacing the head gasket is a bitch.

[_AnGeL_]

and yes an impact wrench would probably be best, but im not mechanic so dont take my word for it lol

[bigtoyota479]

DO NOT use an impact wrench on camshafts or crankshafts! The hammering effect will damage bearing surfaces and fuck your motor up. Unless you plan on replacing all the bearings, don't even think about it.

Now, for some more preaching before I go too much further. Usually when a HG blows, it's because a surface is warped. Get that cylinder head surfaced! A good local machine shop will be able to do this for you. Run you about 25-30 bucks. You'll have to take the valves out, so get new valve stem seals too.

Now, on to your issue. What kind of strap wrench are you using? I've never had one that tight! Is there a cover on the tranny you can pull and see in there? I typically wedge something in between the flexplate/torque convert to keep it from moving. Use something wooden or rubber, like a hammer handle. If you must use metal, wrap it in a rag first. Wedge it good, then use a breaker bar to loosen that bolt. No, it's not reverse threaded. 100+ ft lbs of torque plus age will do that to them.

[bigtoyota479]

Yeah, I know shops and other places use impact wrenches on everything, but they really shouldn't.

[bigtoyota479]

owait. You trying to remove the CAMSHAFT bolt in the cylinder head up top, or the big pulley under the car on the CRANKSHAFT?

[_AnGeL_]

owait. You trying to remove the CAMSHAFT bolt in the cylinder head up top, or the big pulley under the car on the CRANKSHAFT?

the big pulley, its in the post son.

[_AnGeL_]

DO NOT use an impact wrench on camshafts or crankshafts! The hammering effect will damage bearing surfaces and fuck your motor up. Unless you plan on replacing all the bearings, don't even think about it.

Now, for some more preaching before I go too much further. Usually when a HG blows, it's because a surface is warped. Get that cylinder head surfaced! A good local machine shop will be able to do this for you. Run you about 25-30 bucks. You'll have to take the valves out, so get new valve stem seals too.

Now, on to your issue. What kind of strap wrench are you using? I've never had one that tight! Is there a cover on the tranny you can pull and see in there? I typically wedge something in between the flexplate/torque convert to keep it from moving. Use something wooden or rubber, like a hammer handle. If you must use metal, wrap it in a rag first. Wedge it good, then use a breaker bar to loosen that bolt. No, it's not reverse threaded. 100+ ft lbs of torque plus age will do that to them.

this, twat the reason the one on my civic blow.

[bigtoyota479]

the big pulley, its in the post son.

Ah, but there's a big pulley on the camshaft too, and he says camshaft in his post. Then he points to a picture of the crankshaft.

[fbi90909]

I need to remove the crankshaft. I get mixed up.
Posted via Mobile Device "UA"

[bluecar]

Now, for some more preaching before I go too much further. Usually when a HG blows, it's because a surface is warped. Get that cylinder head surfaced! A good local machine shop will be able to do this for you. Run you about 25-30 bucks. You'll have to take the valves out, so get new valve stem seals too.



I paid $300 for a complete rebuild to the head for BC. I dunno anyone that will straighten them out for only $25. Props for the tip though.

[bigtoyota479]

orly? I had the head on my yota surfaced for 25 bucks, and the ones on my V6 4runner surfaced for 30 a pop. You got charged, most likely, to have the valves ground, head surfaced, new valve guides, new valve seals. That's a head rebuild. I'm just talking about having it surfaced.

FBI: Either PM me or tell me here the city you live in, and I'll give you a place or two to have it surfaced. Or at least a few places to call and ask the price.

[bluecar]

orly? I had the head on my yota surfaced for 25 bucks, and the ones on my V6 4runner surfaced for 30 a pop. You got charged, most likely, to have the valves ground, head surfaced, new valve guides, new valve seals. That's a head rebuild. I'm just talking about having it surfaced.

Yes, all that and new valves. I'd also get it checked for cracks.

[maddskillzz]

why you need to remove the crankshaft pulley???should be able to pull intake and exhaust and everything else bolted to the head and remove the head completely assembled

[fbi90909]

i'm aware of the block needing to get resurfaced. i have already been recommended from NAPA down here to a shop up in Marathon key that will do the resurfacing for 30 bucks. i just have to bring the head block to NAPA and they'll send it up to marathon, either that or i can just take it up it's only an hour away.. not worried about the head block yet as my main priority is the stupid pulley. as soon as i can get that off it should be all smooth from there.
the straps i used were some pos rubber ones at advanced auto. after doing some searching online i see they sell leather ones which may be better. i'll have to check home depot to see if they carry any leather ones. if not i'll have to order it.

i still wanna use a impact wrench though. :) would make it much easier plus, i'm not sure what i'm going to do with the car as of yet, if i can get it to run properly i'll probably sell it for 1000-1500.. if i can't i'll junk it. so if an impact wrench damages the bearings and over time they get worse then so be it. it should be out of my hands by then.
this mazda is just a learning experience and possible investment. or just a learning experience. :)

[fbi90909]

why you need to remove the crankshaft pulley???should be able to pull intake and exhaust and everything else bolted to the head and remove the head completely assembled

i have to. then i have to remove all other pulleys that are on the engine. behind all the pulleys is a "sheild". after i remove that "sheild" it will grant me access to 3 bolts that will also need to be removed prior to all the bolts under the camshaft that need to be removed in order to pull the head.

[bluecar]

That's a whole lot of work.

[bluecar]

I had six bolts holding the head on.

[fbi90909]

That's a whole lot of work.

fucking mazdas man..
i bet it would be SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much easier to do a head gasket swap on 05 and under civic..
removing the intake manifold was a BITCH. vacuum hoses EVERYWHERE!

[maddskillzz]

fucking mazdas man..
i bet it would be SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much easier to do a head gasket swap on 05 and under civic..
removing the intake manifold was a BITCH. vacuum hoses EVERYWHERE!

if you are going to have the block resurfaced shouldnt ya just go ahead and pull the motor out now instead of tryin to take it apart in the car?

[bluecar]

I know it would be easier on the GM.

Is the block aluminum or iron? If iron, I doubt it's warped.

iron block and iron heads = ftw

[fbi90909]

if you are going to have the block resurfaced shouldnt ya just go ahead and pull the motor out now instead of tryin to take it apart in the car?

i don't have a garage where i can just pull an engine cherry picker out the corner to pull the engine. :fyi:

[fbi90909]

probably aluminum. i believe the long blocks aluminum.

[bigtoyota479]

Ya, it's aluminum. That leather? It won't hold any better than the rubber crap. If I were you, I'd get one of the attachments that has a small link chain in it. Those work best, IMO.

[fbi90909]

i auno man...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVWLzScIJss

[bigtoyota479]

This comment here is win.

retarded video. prop a breaker bar against a cross member or something firm and bump the starter and it will def come off.

Instructional Youtube FTL. If you were going to keep the car, I'd say don't do it. If you're just going to sell it, impact away. Fuck the bearings.

[fbi90909]

by bumping the starter i just tap it with a hammer?

[fbi90909]

hm.. saw a video of the post you mentioned.. do you think i can still "crank" the car with everything i had removed?

[bigtoyota479]

Ya, as long as you didn't remove the starter OR the Timing belt. If the timing belt is off, don't do it, you'll damage the engine.

[fbi90909]

timing belt for both cams(front and back) is still on. only belt removed was the belt to the power steering, water pump, alt, and a/c..
it's okay even with the distributor and all the spark plugs removed?

i'll try this tomorrow..
i just need to get a 1/2" socket.. i've been using a 3/8" socket..

[fbi90909]

Popped it using the bumping starter method. Worked like a charm!! I'll rep yah when I get on the computer :)
Posted via Mobile Device "UA"

[bigtoyota479]

Awesome man! Anything else you need, let me know.

[fbi90909]

After in got the pulley off I got the timing tensioner off and the rear valve cover off. Found oil is was also making it's way into the valve cover but not as bad as the one up in the front. Tomorrow I'll pull the camshaft off.
Only think I'll need help on is replacing all the vacuum hoses back in place. That and I need to find a plastic peice that goes in between the throttle body and the air filter tube. :/
Posted via Mobile Device "UA"

[bigtoyota479]

If you need a vacuum diagram, head to autozone.com. Seriously. Make an account there, put in your car, and they have all kinds of diagrams, torque specs, instructions, directions, everything man. All for free.

[darthvibrator]

the video is a nice trick. had to do it recently for the same reason, but on a mitsu

its funny though...at work i use my impact when replacing harmonic balancers (rare though). i have my doubts about it damaging the journal bearings but i have no proof.

edit: oh yea, that car sounds like a bitch to do a head gasket on. removing all the pulleys to get to some sheild? wtf?

edit 2: never mind, by shield you must be talking about the timing cover? and i assume the only reason to do this is to access the belt tensioner. sounds normal to me then. i was imagining somekind of crazy plutonium shielding for whatever reason mazda thought might be a good idea.

[fbi90909]

i can't describe this sheild too well. it just sits behind all the pulleys and the timing belt. i'll take a pic when i get it off.. right now i'm stuck with removing the camshaft pulleys. these want to be little bitches too. so untill i take these pulleys off i still can't remove this sheild. UGH... this car better run right when i'm done..

on a side note, anyone know where i can get one of these cheaper?
http://sd.autohausaz.com/autohausaz/detailw.jsp?sid=w4ilub55dgmz4t55odpdtbv4&partner=autohausaz&year=1993&make=80&model=17626~~1705~~~~@626,%202.5%20V6&category=air&part=240509@Air%20Intake%20Hose

an Air Mass Meter Boot..
for a 1993 626 V6 2.5L ES
would be much appreciated. :)

[bigtoyota479]

its funny though...at work i use my impact when replacing harmonic balancers (rare though). i have my doubts about it damaging the journal bearings but i have no proof.



It's more for the camshafts that ride in the aluminum heads. Crankshafts, yeah, probably not so much, because a clutch puts some force on the crank too. Still, my Dad turned wrenches on F1 and other racecars back in the day, and that's what he was taught. I can understand the science behind it, because bearings are soft compared to the hardened steel cranks, and it COULD introduce some more slop.

Camshafts in those aluminum heads don't have any bearings, so I'm more nervous about that. If the specs are out of whack, it means a new cylinder head, which is a 400-600 dollar proposition. Crank bearings will run you 50 bucks for a set, not so bad. Someday, when I have an engine torn apart and an extra 50 bucks, I'll test this out. New bearings installed, and I'll impact the crank. Check the play. Install the other set of new bearings, and check the play again, and compare notes.

[fbi90909]

fuck this car it's going to the yard.

[_AnGeL_]

lul

[bigtoyota479]

orly? Now what?

[MR.Crunk]

pussy